Bologna and Emilia Romagna
We discovered Bologna and several cities in Emilia Romagna on a two-week round trip in 2023. Cultural highlights, great landscapes and excellent Italian cuisine were on the programme.
Bologna has a long university tradition (since 1088), commerce and fine Italian cuisine. The relaxed student district is completely different to the busy city centre. You can dine everywhere, particularly of course in the Quadrilatero with the Via Pescherie Vecchie in the neighborhood of the Piazza Maggiore. Here you will find the Fontana del Nettuno, the mighty Palazzi di Commune, the Basilica di San Petronio, the Palazzo Re Enzo and other historic buildings. Two medieval towers, the Due Torri, rise prominently into the sky. In the adjacent Basilica di San Domenico, the opulently decorated sarcophagus of St Dominic is impressive, while a mausoleum with dignitaries from the university is in the church forecourt. We found the Hotel I Portici on Via dell' Indipendenza a pleasant place to stay.
Modena is famous for its vinegar, cars, and cathedral. We started at the small museum on the history of Aceto Balsamico traditionale di Modena, which must mature in wooden barrels for at least 12 years without additives. The Torre Ghirlandina, the bell tower of the Duomo San Geminiano from the 11th century with a beautiful rose window on the entrance façade, cannot be overlooked. Directly neighboured is the Piazza della Pomposa with bars and a market hall. Art can be admired in the Palazzo Margherita. We did not visit the Enzo Ferrari Museum, the Maserati showroom and the Casa Museo Luciano Pavarotti.
In Parma, we found the historic centre interesting in addition to the ham, which we tasted in the suburb of Langhirano after a visit to the ham museum. The Piazza Duomo is home to the majestic Cattedrale S. Maria Assunta with its cupola frescoes by Correggio and the octagonal Battistero with Veronese marble and religious murals from the 12th century. The Teatro Farnese is a huge red fir building dating from 1617/18, where the autumn Verdi Festival takes place. Verdi is the city's most important person.
Ravenna is a treasure trove of sights. There are two Basilicae di Sant'Apollinare. The older basilica ("in classe") from the 6th century greets you on the periphery of the city. The mosaics above the simple altar show white sheep on a green meadow next to God the Father. The work leaves you humbled. The newer basilica ("nuovo") was built by the Ostrogoth king Theoderic in the city centre (centro storico). The three-nave church impresses with its golden mosaics and Byzantine murals. Theodoric also initiated the large Basilica di San Vitale. It shows outstanding mosaics with an oriental touch. Smaller buildings from the Gothic period include the neighboring Mausoleo di Galla and the octagonal Battistero degli Ariani with apostles in the cupola. Outside in the park is the monumental Mausoleo di Teodorico. Dante Alighierei is considered the son of the city.
Rimini shines away from the "Teutonic grill" with its important buildings. The Arch of August invites you to enter and the Roman Ponte d'Augusto is integrated into the pedestrian zone. In the Tempio Malatestiano, a Gothic cathedral with Renaissance parts, you will find the fresco by Piero della Francesca. Recent excavations have revealed unique mosaics at the bottom of the Domus del Chirurgo.
The student town of Urbino lies high up on a mountain in the Marken region. It is characterized by narrow streets and brick buildings that create a special flair. Urbino is the birthplace of the painter Rafael, who is omnipresent. The centre is dominated by the Palazzo Ducale of Duke Montefeltro and the Duomo S. Maria Assunta. Religious frescoes from the 14th century can be admired in the Oratorio di San Giovanni.
What else will stay in our memory? The view into the far distance from the Castello San Leo near San Marino, interesting murals in the village of Dozza and, of course, the pasta of Emilia in all its variations.
Tags: Bologna, Emilia Romagna, Travel impressions